Abbott Elementary principal Ava Coleman (Janelle James) confidently dresses for many jobs she takes seriously: running her podcast networks; shilling suspect eye masks; and live-streaming as a prolific Depop influencer from her office during school hours. Ava’s caftans, sleek dresses and faux-leather staples highlight all her endeavors — except overseeing the struggling Philadelphia public school she runs, as documented by the crew that trails the show’s characters. “Ava wears whatever she’s in the mood for that day. It has nothing to do with her job,” says James with a laugh.
But with a looming charter school takeover and burgeoning respect for her staff in the ABC sitcom’s second season, Ava seizes the leadership role. Her stylish — and oft-dress-code-flouting — wardrobe, by returning costume designer Susan Michalek, reflects her journey. “Ava just got more fabulous this season,” says James. “She’s just doing better in life. The documentary has taken off. She’s dating a famous person and is trying to convey that she’s doing a better job as principal than before.” Michalek highlights the principal’s power-dressing progression:
1. THE ON-BRAND ENTREPRENEURIAL OUTFIT
Ep 201: “Development Day”
“It’s game day, baby!” exclaims Ava, waving a wad of cash collected from renting out the Abbott parking lot for a tailgate party, which she double-booked with the school year prep session, Development Week. Ava works the crowd in a pleather Aritzia skirt and elevated official Eagles merch: a fitted V-neck T-shirt, a cap perched atop perfect barrel waves and a Chanel-esque quilted belt-bag. “It’s Ava’s version of what she would wear to a football game,” says Michalek, who customized the fanny pack with a gold chain belt, an Ava signature. Says James, who “insists” on heels: “I have to feel my most attractive.”
2. THE PLAYFUL CAFTAN
Ep 204: “Principal’s Office”
Ava returns young Micah to class so she can watch Below Deck in peace.
Courtesy of ABC/Gilles Mingasson
Ava frequently saunters into — i.e., interrupts — classrooms in jaunty caftans and kimono robes more suited for Mykonos or Coachella. “She’s whimsical in her approach to principal-ing, and she’s whimsical about everything,” says Michalek. When a disruptive student is sent to her office, Ava, instead of meting out punishment, empathizes with the youngster, returning the pupil to Gregory (Tyler James Williams) in a vivacious yellow-swirl caftan.
3. THE VERSATILE WORKDAY DRESS
Ep 209: “Sick Day”
Amid a substitute shortage, Ava spends a day in her teachers’ shoes.
Courtesy of ABC/Gilles Mingasson
While ignoring memos about a county-wide substitute teacher shortage, Ava must fill in for a sick Janine (star and showrunner Quinta Brunson). Luckily, she’s wearing a knockout, but polished, knit dress in an authoritative navy, which takes her through a day of self-discovery — starting with inappropriate comments to Gregory. “There’s a flirtatious interplay with him during this whole episode that makes the dress work,” says Michalek.
“Get my hands all chalky? No,” scoffs Ava, but by episode’s end, she steps up to her task, reading Eloise at the Plaza for story time — and even restraining herself from regaling the kids about her own hotel adventures, which feature Ghostface Killah. “Anytime she’s being ‘responsible,’ she gets a little bit more put together,” says James, who happily kept the Reiss dress.
4. THE POWER BLOUSE AND SKIRT
Ep 217: “Mural Arts”
Occasionally, Ava embraces her leadership — and sports a matching blouse and skirt to show her power.
ABC/Gilles Mingasson
As Legendary Charter Schools begins its raid on Abbott, Ava doesn’t grasp the ramifications of privatization — considering it to be a possible “glow-up.” Ultimately, she rises to the occasion while looking like a boss in a bold fuchsia power blouse and pencil skirt from Zara, giving surprisingly good teaching direction to Jacob (Chris Perfetti). With the ribbon-bow at her neck precisely tied, Ava’s monochrome ensemble feels focused and commanding. “Legendary Charter,” says Ava ominously. “If anyone’s going to take advantage of this school district, it’s me. Who do we need to fight first?”
5. THE STRATEGIC SUIT
Ep 219: “Festival”
Ava takes on the charter school threatening Abbott — by interviewing for a job there.
Courtesy of ABC/Gilles Mingasson
As the scrappy teachers push back on the Legendary takeover, Ava pivots into self-preservation mode. She returns from a mysterious daytime meeting looking sharp in a no-nonsense, all-black skirt suit — because she interviewed for a job with the enemy. “What? Their branding needs work,” says Ava.
“It’s the first time she’s in a skirt suit — the first time she looks this official,” confirms Michalek, who interpreted the scripted directive of “dressed to the nines” with a buttoned-up double-breasted L’Agence blazer, a chain-link pattern blouse by Nili Lotan and a skirt by Theory. (Michalek rationalizes Ava’s wardrobe transition from budget-friendly Zara to contemporary brands as resulting from the principal dating NBA player Andre Iguodala, as revealed in the holiday episode.) “Ava’s always the contradiction, right?”
This story first appeared in the June 7 issue of The Hollywood Reporter magazine. Click here to subscribe.
