“I thought it was really time to think big, to create a show that was the maximum expression of who I am.” So said Andrea Adamo before his show this evening. The incentive to think big, he added, was driven by the popularity of his knitwear amongst influential dressers including Dua Lipa, Anitta, Nicola Peltz and Julia Fox.

The models came out of a modern building in Piazza Olivetti, a square behind the Prada Foundation. Their catwalk was a shallow pool of water, through which they splashed in flip-flops with maxi platforms or sandals with solid but vertiginous heels. “Water, in this collection is a fundamental element,” said Adamo, adding that it pointed to the inspiration he had drawn from a surf village named Famara in Lanzarote. Every morning, when the breaks come in, surfers both local and from far-flung locales—sometimes including Adamo—congregate.

The ribbed knit, the basis of the brand’s DNA, was transformed by thin nylon threads within it that gave it a more solid structure: the knits both contained and added volume to the undulations of their wearer. Wetsuit reminiscent underlayers provided the foundation for fringed and woven dresses. Cargo pants and capris in distressed leather and treated cottons swayed with strapping. The clothes as well as the water beneath them were driven by tides of movement.

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