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Elton John is a technicolour pop star. From his outfits onstage to the designs of his album sleeves, the English maverick has always sought to grapple with his visual identity, evolving countless times over the years. Flamboyant, over-the-top, and innately colourful, only one descriptor applies: he’s Elton, and that’s enough.

Seeking inspiration wherever he can find it, Elton – together with husband David Furnish – has developed an incredible trove of photography, buying immense collections from the greats, and supporting new talent wherever possible. New exhibition Fragile Beauty shares this with the public, a project brought to life in partnership with V&A South Kensington.

A lavish exhibition that more than lives up to Elton’s star billing, Fragile Beauty: Photographs from the Sir Elton John and David Furnish Collection, impresses through its variety. Yes, the iconic highs are in place, but the selection also makes room to spotlight personal pleasures, left-field images, and beyond. In all, the exhibition showcases over 300 rare prints from 140 photographers, covering the period from 1950 to present day.

music Herman Leonard, Chet Baker, New York City, 1956 © Herman Leonard Photography, LLC

Located in the Sainsbury Gallery, the hallowed confines of V&A South Kensington has scarcely seen such an impressive collection in one place before. The exhibition includes some of the first acquisitions ever made by Elton John, including fashion photographs by Horst P. Horst, Irving Penn and Herb Ritts.

Some of his personal passions come to the fore. Movingly, we’re able to witness three incredible portraits of Marilyn Monroe, capturing this Hollywood goddess at her beautiful peak. You can soak up Richard Avedon’s well-known early photograph of the actress in New York in 1957, and absorb Eve Arnold’s portrait of Monroe rehearsing her lines on the set of iconic flick The Misfits in 1960. Finally, you’re able to witness Bert Stern’s The Last Sitting (1962) which captures the fated star lost in thought two months before she died.

music Peter Hujar, Candy Darling on her Deathbed, 1974 © 2023
The Peter Hujar Archive, LLC / Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York

Boasting a glittering array of portraits, some of the artists captured in these photographs include soul goddess Aretha Franklin, iconic actress Elizabeth Taylor, The Beatles, and jazz trumpeter Chet Baker, amongst many, many others. 

Elton remains in adoration of the image, cherishing the craft of photography. The people behind the lens are platformed during this incredible exhibition – notably, there are eleven Robert Mapplethorpe images, an incredible (and all too rare) chance to absorb his work in the UK. Elsewhere, you’ll experience iconic photography shot by Cindy Sherman, William Eggleston, Diane Arbus, Sally Mann, Zanele Muholi, Ai Weiwei, and Carrie Mae Weems. Indeed, the collection is still growing: Fragile Beauty contains brand new acquisitions from Tyler Mitchell, Trevor Paglen and An-My Lê.

music Robert Mapplethorpe, Self Portrait, 1985 © Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation.

Part of an ongoing partnership between Sir Elton John and David Furnish with the V&A, this is undoubtedly one of the most spectacular photography exhibitions London is likely to witness this year. In a joint statement, Elton and David explain that the project “takes our collaboration to really exciting new heights, showcasing some of the most beloved photographers and iconic images from within our collection. Working alongside the V&A again has been a truly memorable experience, and we look forward to sharing this exhibition with the public.”

It’s all part of Elton’s next phase. Calling time on his touring career with an incredible Glastonbury headline slot last summer, he’s soaking up the love of his family, while still embarking on a plethora of creative endeavours. As he once told CLASH: “Every now and then I get the urge to do something!”

Open right now, Fragile Beauty: Photographs from the Sir Elton John and David Furnish Collection runs until January 5th, 2025. Book your tickets here.

Words: Robin Murray

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